Thursday, September 03, 2026

Sao Tomé: Open-air Tchiloli Theatre Continues to Thrive

São Tomé and Príncipe

Sporting a range of outfits accessorised with beards, wigs and hats, actors on Sao Tomé perform a medieval European tragedy on the island off Africa's west coast. Brought to the archipelago nation more than 500 years ago by Portuguese colonialists, the tradition of open-air Tchiloli theatre continues to prove popular with residents and tourists to this day.

One of the troop's members believes its popularity comes from its championing of justice.

Marc Carvalho has been in the troop for 35 years, and says, "people love this culture because it speaks about something very real: justice. Justice does not distinguish between rich and poor. Whether one is poor or rich, man or woman, there must be justice. That’s exactly it."

The play's script is in Old Portuguese; it draws from the legends linked to the Carolingian dynasty, which ruled over the majority of western Europe from the eighth to the 10th centuries AD.

Spectators say the themes continue to resonate, which is what has preserved the tradition for so long.

"It conveys a very important message. Basically, it says that justice is something that, how shall I put it, concerns both the poor and the rich. No matter the religion, no matter the social class. In other words, wealth, that sort of thing. Everything has to be fair. Whoever sows evil reaps evil," says Maribel Borja.

It's intense work, with the troop spending several hours performing at a time. But member Jardel Moniz Fernandez says he finds it energising and hopes to one day include his children in the group.

"I have two children, and soon I’ll start teaching my oldest to play the character of Kata, a young boy who, in the play, has to deliver a letter. I’ll start getting him ready now so that he can also be part of the group," he says.

Open-air Tchiloli theatre is now a UNESCO-listed tradition

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